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Why progression�

Why progression�

I am going to keep on informing you about the fingerboard that I presented in the previous post, for those of you who are interested or have questions about it.

As I do it, I will provide background about the process that ended with the creation of this hangboard and its associated methodology.

Justification of  progression�

This fingerboard, and the training methodology I propose for it, have their origin in the following facts:

o The key physical performance factor in sport climbing is maximum finger strength

o The specific exercise for improving finger strength and endurance is the dead hang.

o The most representative grip used in sport climbing is the half-crimp, because is the most common on the small holds frequently found on difficult climbs; and the representative hold is the edge.

o We measure maximum finger strength with two related methods:

• By the maximum added weight that we can hold for 5 seconds when hanging from an edge of a certain depth.
• By the smallest edge that we can hold our body weight from for 5 seconds.

o We measure finger endurance by the maximum time we can hang off an edge of a certain depth.

o In my research, I found that increasing maximum finger strength also increases finger endurance without performing finger endurance training. Also, that this gain is bigger than the one obtained by training only finger endurance without previously having developed a high enough level of maximum finger strength.  Also, for climbers with a lower level of maximum strength who want to train specifically their finger strength-endurance, the gains in the latter -as measured by a test of maximum time on an 11 mm edge- will be greater if they first improve their finger maximum strength than if they start training their finger strength-endurance right away (unpublished data, manuscript in preparation). (Edited 2012-07-26 because previous paragraph was incomplete and ambiguous-->Thank you very much to my attentive readers ;-))

o An effective training is the one that meets the principles of specificity, overload and individuality, and to achieve these its fundamental to control and adjust the training load.

o The most important variables for the training load that we need to control in order to develop maximum finger strength are, for a given duration of the effort:

• The Size or depth of the edge
• The % of Body Mass or amount of Added Weight when hanging from a given edge

o Climbers with a low or medium level of finger strength, and/or those who havent previously undergone intensive finger training, get significant results using medium intensity methods without the need of using added weight, because their body weight is enough to provide the load needed to induce positive adaptation.

o Persistence and motivation are key for improving performance in the long run, and they stem from enjoying what you do, choosing when to do it, and working day by day focusing on self-improvement, effort and continuous learning.
These scientifically tested facts mean that a reliable and consistent fingerboard needs to have a set of characteristics, like precision. The maximum error in edge depth is �0.3 mm, in order to make the training experience consistent across boards.

In the meantime I will try to answer your questions in this blog or in FAQ entries that will be available soon.

Thank you for your interest.
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